Thought it would be fun to go through my pictures and highlight some of the food we have enjoyed (or at least tasted) here.
So, fresh fruit & veggies…papaya, mango, banana, pineapple, lemon, lettuce, tomatoes, potatoes, watermelon, herbs, mint, onions, eggplant, carrots, cabbage, cukes to name a few. Seasonally, we can get broccoli, cauliflower, guava and strawberries and a few other goodies that are such a welcome change. We have enjoyed beef, chicken, fish and lots of starches…couscous, rice, pasta, millet. Food can be purchased roadside prepared or LIVE! Brochettes (like shish kabobs), french fries, rotisserie chicken stuffed with rice or couscous, massa (little pancakey things), honey, baguette, beignets, fruits veggies, kiliche (sp?) (thin strips of beef thinly sliced and dried in the sun).
Roadside treats are prepared a few different ways. There are small stands that sell hot food; omelets & the Maggi cooks making the day’s fresh dish. People stand in line bringing their own bowls to be filled. NO CHAINS! “Fast Food” is not really all that fast, but yummy like news, chwarma, cantonese rice, fried chicken, frozen juice in a bag, green mangoes, There are rotisseries turning small chickens, open fires with meats grilling and with huge pots with boiling oil for beignets or special pans to make the perfect massa. The common denominator are all the spices, piments & sauces! Dipping is essential & eating with your hands is a must.
I have enjoyed getting back to basics in my own cooking. Enjoying less processed foods and cooking from scratch…homemade yogurt, granola, juice, syrup…. I take longer to plan out and prepare meals. I often have to go to a few markets for find all the food we need for the week. We have three good sized food stores with many imported products. Not a Super Walmart, but sufficient. I actually like less choice sometimes (if you know me, I am not much of a shopper). Aside from the “super” markets, there are markets where people buy fresh produce and LIVE animals! Ha ha, we are still regularly offered live pintade (guinea fowl) and even the occasion guinea pig or rabbit. We have bought any yet, but for our grand opening we did, I must confess…..have 6 live sheep slaughtered and prepared in a traditional earthen “oven”. They were stuffed with couscous and rice. . I never thought we would have live animals hog tied and strapped to the top of our vehicle. Oh my! Quite an experience.
The French influence is evident here. Many bakeries baking wonderful fresh baguette and pastries….,pain au chocolat! I have been surprised at some of the wonderful restaurant experiences that we have had. My favorite meal has to be Capitiaine (the local fish) brochettes with aloko (fried banana). We have enjoyed exploring authentic French, Indian, Chinese, Lebanese, Italian and of course West African cuisine. Since we moved here there have been all sorts of places open some of the best little café’s ever.
We have enjoyed breaking bread with so many friends, we have been to all sorts of homes, some with dirt floors some that look like American homes. We have enjoyed many picnics along the Niger River some on the dunes. We have seen beautiful sunsets while dining outside looking down onto the River. We have been treated to real Swiss fondue and even enjoyed a Seder meal. Love the diversity! So many celebrations…baby namings, weddings, holidays.
Although, from my western mindset, I am often fixated on what I am going to eat, it is hard to ignore my neighbors. In our three years here, there has been much need and famine. We have become VERY sensitive to not waste or overindulge. The constant request of beggars along the street and at each red light really hurts my heart. There have been times that I take food along to pass out, but it never scratches the surface of the huge problem of lack. Oh how I wish I could hold one HUGE banquet. I am humbled then as neighbors bring me food to share. For Ramadan (see pics of the sheep on stakes roasting) our neighbors give a third to the poor, a third t o friends and neighbors and keep a third for themselves. Eating is such a community thing here, I love hearing the guards gathering outside our gate to share evening meal and then tea. MMMMM, the third cup is my fav! Everyone loves to share tea.
So, for most it is a constant diet of starch and sauce. The most interesting things I have sampled? Would have to be pounded yam, crickets, bissap (juice made from dried hibiscus petals), moringa sauce (very healthy & eaten to boost energy). I am sure I have just scratched the surface, this was my effort at recapping my culinary experience here! It has been truly wonderful!
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